Skin-Care Tips

Freeze dried skin care is the future, here’s what you need to know


TThe mention of freeze drying makes me think of space age tech and Trader Joe fruit snacks inspired by astronauts, but it’s actually a fairly common process when making skin care products. While you might assume this is simply because beauty chemists want a reason to fool around with the freeze-dried mist, there are two practical reasons for this: it maintains the effectiveness of the product and helps reduce the carbon footprint of any product.

In the context of skin care, “freeze drying is a low temperature dehydration process,” says Shuting Hu, MD, dermatologist and founder of Acaderma. The ingredient is frozen, the pressure is lowered and moisture is removed. When an ingredient is heated to room temperature, it remains completely dry.

“Freeze drying reduces the molecular weight of the ingredient,” says Krupa Kestline, cosmetic chemist and founder of KKT Consultants. This means that you are essentially getting a much better return on investment because the lower the molecular weight of any given product or ingredient, the deeper it can penetrate the skin. When certain ingredients are freeze-dried, they still retain their nutritional value, such as polyphenols, hyaluronic acids, proteins, etc.

In addition, when water is removed from a formula, the active ingredients can often be present in higher concentrations, which can increase efficacy. And when performance improves, your skin can do more with the ingredients at hand. However, if you have sensitive skin (and the same thing), a more potent product can make it more aggressive on your skin, so when in doubt, always do a patch test on your arm or arm before applying it to your face.

Eliminating water also helps extend shelf life, and it could be even more benign for the Earth, according to Dr. Hu. When water is present in a formula, it needs a preservative to keep it safe and not turn into a petri dish. “Freeze-dried ingredients generally do not need to be canned as less water means less chances for microbial life to thrive and contaminate the ingredient,” says Jenny Ewing, head of product development at Herbivore.

Water is a scarce resource, and ethical consumers may look for ways to reduce their consumption, except when necessary. In addition to the lack of water, the carbon footprint of transporting food vacuum bags is significantly less than moving containers of liquid around the world, which is a big plus for freeze-dried skin care.

While the process is already in use, Ewing says you may see more focus on it as “formulas containing innovative ingredients like this continue to gain traction as consumers become more and more aware of the impact that ingredients have on skin care have an impact on the environment. … »Continue scrolling through to four freeze-drying skin care products you can buy right now.

Photo: RaelHyaluronic acid is a versatile moisturizer. When your skin is dry or during the winter months when it doesn’t get as much moisture, this 91% Hyaluronic Acid Concentrate will soothe your complexion by hydrating it for an estimated 100 hours.

In Store: Rael Moisture Melt, $ 24.

Another source of hyaluronic acid, this little pill-like product contains 98.5% (!!!!) of hyaluronic acid. The short-term effect of the product is smoother skin, while the long-term benefits include skin hydration and wrinkle reduction.

Buy Now: Saro de Rue Freeze-Dried Hyaluronic Acid Pure Actives, $ 99

This product is actually only active ingredients. The small balls of the product in the package are stem cell cultures that only break down when you mix them with your chosen moisturizer or toner. If your skin is tired or needs a boost of vitality, you can easily incorporate this little freeze-dried bead into your daily routine.

In store: Evercell Chaum Absolute Luxe Cell Charger, $ 35

Dr. Hu says freeze-dried ingredients are often found in formulas used in Acaderma products. Oasis Barrier Boost Serum “uses freeze-drying to concentrate polyphenols from Kinkeliba plant extract.” The extract comes from a plant that grows exclusively in the sub-Saharan region of West Africa. In this formula, the concentrated power of the plant helps rebuild the skin barrier and soothe the skin.

Buy Now: Acaderma Oasis Barrier Booster, $ 68

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